Nail technicians in the UK will face strict restrictions on the use of gel polishes containing toxic TPO from today.
Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO) is an ingredient that helps gel nail polish to harden under UV light.
But behind the glossy finish lies a more sinister reality. Gel manicures could be costing women their fertility.
From September last year, sales and use of the chemical was banned in the EU, after it was classed as a ‘reproductive toxin’.
Now, UK manufacturers will be banned from placing any new products containing TPO on the market.
Following this ban, nail technicians will not be able to buy any products containing TPO after February 14, 2027.
However, they will still be allowed to use any products they have already purchased after this date.
Retailers will also be banned from selling any at-home gel manicure kits that contain the toxic ingredient.
UK manufactures can no loner place any new products containing TPO on the market
‘TPO has been banned in cosmetic products based on its hazardous properties, meaning how a substance might behave under a worst case situation, when our bodies are exposed to a very large amount,’ Caroline Rainsford, the director of science at the Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association, said.
So how safe is a gel manicure and what can you do to protect yourself?
Firstly, an important distinction to make is that the TPO ban does not outlaw gel manicures, only polishes containing the toxic ingredient, with many salons already opting for TPO-free polishes.
The EU made the call to ban TPO following animal studies which found that rats repeatedly fed high doses of the toxin resulted in significant fertility issues.
And it’s believed that TPO could pose a potential risk to humans, as an endocrine disruptor, which interferes with the body’s hormones.
While a monthly manicure is unlikely to result in significant exposure to TPO, experts say nail technicians could face a greater risk because they handle uncured gel products for long periods of time, bringing them into more frequent contact with the chemical, though it is unlikely to be absorbed directly into the bloodstream.
The endocrine, or hormonal, system is the body’s messaging system. Reproductive glands such as the thyroid, ovaries and testes release hormones, instructing organs how to behave.
Endocrine-disrupting chemicals, like TPO, have been shown in animal studies to mimic natural hormones, blocking receptors and altering hormone production.
This can increase the likelihood of diabetes, obesity, developmental problems and cancers. Experts say they could also be behind the rise of incurable reproductive disorders.
Cases of endomitosis – where cells similar to those in the lining of the womb grow in other parts of the body – for example, have risen from around 3.4million globally in 1990 to a shocking 190million today.
Meanwhile, the number of women with polycystic metabolic ovary syndrome (PMOS) – a hormonal disorder that causes irregular periods, weight gain and excess body hair – has doubled in Britain over the past two decades alone.
In 2012, the World Health Organisation declared endocrine disruptors a ‘global threat’. Since then, a number of chemicals believed to affect the hormonal system have been banned by regulatory bodies around the world.
But experts believe chemicals still used in popular cosmetic products, like perfumes, may be having a subtle effect on the body, The Mail on Sunday reported earlier this year.
‘Our hormones are critical for our health – they run everything in the body from our reproductive system to our metabolism to our sleep pattern and weight,’ said Chloe Topping, senior UK campaigner at The Chem Trust.
‘There is growing scientific evidence that some of these chemicals can interfere with our hormonal system. But regulation is not keeping up with the science. The UK is significantly lagging behind the rest of Europe in controlling these substances.’
One of the best ways to avoid these chemicals, experts say, is to avoid any products containing TPO – by opting for nail polishes including The Manucurist and Townhouse’s own range – and fragranced products unless the brand specifically states its phthalate-free.
