Lady of Ro has returned to Subiaco under a new but familiar management team, reviving the Greek-influenced restaurant with a generous menu, lively atmosphere and the informal spirit of its earlier incarnation.
The restaurant reopened in May after a brief closure, with hospitality veterans Jaycinta Zammit, Paul Zammit and Daniel Goodsell now overseeing the operation. The original owners, Despina and Brian Tanner, have since left Perth and live on the Greek island of Kastellorizo.
Much of the restaurant’s identity remains intact, including its family-style approach and a number of established dishes. The menu is straightforward rather than experimental, with food presented plainly and built around recognisable ingredients and robust flavours.
Greek heritage still shapes the offering, despite Lady of Ro’s broader description as a continental restaurant. Slow-cooked octopus is finished over charcoal, while braised lamb shoulder receives a similar two-stage treatment. A chicken dish, however, was found to be overcooked and lacking seasoning.
Vegetarian dishes provide some of the strongest highlights. Charred cabbage gains depth from braising and grilling, while a dish of grilled aubergine and red capsicum is combined with slow-cooked garlic. The fava dip is made with yellow chickpeas cooked until smooth and creamy, and is served with pita alongside a cashew dip.
Lady of Ro brings old-school restaurant style to Subiaco
The compact dining rooms are dimly lit and busy, with conversation taking precedence over mobile phones. Staff move briskly between tables, contributing to a room that feels energetic without becoming formal.
Jaycinta Zammit has introduced furnishings and tableware inherited from her Italian grandmother. Paul Zammit has also made changes to the food, including substantial gogges, a type of ricotta gnocchi inspired by his childhood in Sydney’s multicultural Redfern.
The restaurant’s most notable dessert is the soufra, a baked custard pie made with crisp layers of filo pastry, pistachio and cinnamon sugar. It reflects the work of Despina Tanner, who helped establish the dessert at Perth venues including John Street Cafe and Boucla, as well as the original Lady of Ro.
Lady of Ro continues to offer BYO wine, charged at $12 a bottle. Goodsell’s interest in wine is reflected in the service, which includes suitable glassware and coolers without placing pressure on diners to purchase from the restaurant.
The value-focused Yiayia’s Table set menu costs $88 and provides a substantial quantity of food. A meal for two was estimated at about $180, excluding drinks, while recommended dishes include soufra at $17, fava and cashew dip with pita at $17, and slow lamb with vine leaves at $46.
The current team has also brought younger staff into the restaurant, with training overseen by more experienced members of the operation. Paul Zammit leads the menu, while Michaela De Matos runs the kitchen in his absence.
Lady of Ro was awarded 14.5 out of 20 in the review, with its combination of generous food, BYO dining and a convivial setting marking it out as a return to a less polished but more communal style of restaurant.
