Lady of Ro has reopened in Subiaco under hospitality veterans Jaycinta Zammit, Paul Zammit and Daniel Goodsell, reviving the restaurant’s generous, family-style approach while preserving much of its established identity.
The continental restaurant returned in May after a brief closure, with a low-lit, lively dining room where conversation takes precedence and the kitchen serves straightforward dishes rather than elaborate interpretations.
Its Greek character remains prominent, despite the broader continental description. Slow-cooked octopus is finished over charcoal, while braised lamb shoulder receives a similar two-stage treatment. A roast chicken was less successful on one visit, having been judged overcooked and under-seasoned.
The restaurant’s links to its former era are particularly evident in its baked dishes. Despina Tanner, the Greek-Australian cook behind Lady of Ro’s original reputation, is credited with introducing many Perth diners to soufra, a twice-baked custard pie, at venues including John Street Cafe and Boucla.
That dessert remains a highlight. Crisp layers of filo are combined with a gently sweet custard, pistachio and cinnamon sugar, creating one of the restaurant’s most notable offerings.
Lady of Ro keeps its Greek foundations
Several of the strongest dishes are vegetable-based. Charred cabbage gains depth from braising and grilling, while a dip made from yellow chickpeas is cooked until dense and creamy. Grilled aubergine and red peppers are combined with slow-cooked garlic in a dish listed simply as village eggplant.
Pita is served with dips including fava and cashew, while Paul Zammit’s substantial gogges, similar to ricotta gnocchi, reflect inspiration from his school days in Sydney’s multicultural Redfern.
The current owners have also added personal touches. Urns, tablecloths, crockery and other heirlooms from Jaycinta Zammit’s Italian grandmother sit alongside the restaurant’s inherited features, while the menu has been streamlined without discarding familiar signatures.
A set menu called Yiayia’s Table offers a large quantity of food for $88. BYO remains available at $12 a bottle, with Goodsell’s interest in wine extending to the glassware, coolers and service rather than simply encouraging diners to buy more.
The dining room is staffed by a mixture of experienced hospitality figures and younger employees. Michaela De Matos runs the kitchen when Paul Zammit is away, while the wider team is being trained under the guidance of the restaurant’s more seasoned operators.
Lady of Ro received a score of 14.5 out of 20. Recommended dishes include the $17 soufra, the $17 fava and cashew dip with pita, and slow lamb with vine leaves at $46. A meal for two costs about $180, excluding drinks.
