Larry’s Charcoal Chicken has opened in Subiaco, offering slow-roasted chicken, lamb and eggplant alongside dips, sides and small plates. The eatery comes from the team behind Shui and Lupe’s and is tucked into a laneway off Roberts Road.
The menu is built around three main proteins, with diners able to have them in a bowl, with bread or alongside additional dishes. The restaurant’s stated ambition is to serve Perth’s best charcoal chicken.
A lunchtime visit began with four spiced beef manti for $20. The Turkish dumplings arrived with garlic yoghurt, bell pepper chilli jam and crunchy toppings, making for a substantial opening dish.
The bowl lunch special paired fattoush salad with crispy lamb for $21. Four generous portions of lamb were well cooked and easy to pull apart, while the fresh salad helped offset the meat’s richness. A serving of zhug added further freshness.
The main event was a half charcoal chicken costing $24, with a whole chicken priced at $38. The meat was tender, the skin was flavoursome and the accompanying toum — a strong garlic sauce — was a highlight.
The plate also came with baby cucumber and turnip pickles. The cucumber could have used more pickling, while the turnip retained more crunch than preferred, although both points were matters of taste.
Service was quick, with staff offering to lower the blinds soon after arrival as the wind picked up. The restaurant has the feel of a place suited to a casual meal that can be completed within an hour.
Larry’s did not displace the reviewer’s established charcoal chicken favourites, but the Subiaco restaurant was judged worth returning to. It received a score of 16 out of 20.
Larry’s Charcoal Chicken is at 375c Roberts Road, Subiaco. It is open on Sunday and Tuesday from 11.30am to 8pm, Wednesday from 11.30am to 9.30pm, and Thursday to Saturday from 11.30am to 9pm. Bookings are available.
